17 июня - длинный зимний день

Оксана! 
Я конечно была убеждена в том, что наша гостеприимица Оксана – нестандартная личность, но она потрясла меня чуть не до основания: как она нас встречала! В зале аэропорта в яркокрасном в пол русском наряде стаяла красавица с косой ниже пояса и держала в руках пышные венки и гирлянды цветов – наше парадное облачение! 
Мы немедленно были наряжены и утопая в небесном запахе тропических цветов препровождены под завистливые взгляды других пассажиров в машину, которая отвезла нас в дом, в котором мы будем жить здесь почти целый месяц. 
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Дом оказался суперским: громадный стеклянный куб, выходящий тремя сторонами в сад, полный тени и света одновременно. Здесь можно было расположиться вдесятером запросто, и я пожалела, что нас действительно не десяток: шикарная терраса с грилем прямо пропадала без шумной веселой компании! В доме было абсолютно все – включая всякие мелочи: это редкая удача. Потому что обычно приходится сразу бежать в магазин за всем необходимым, а здесь была даже еда на первые пару дней, да еще Оксана принесла нам целую сумку овощей-фруктов 

Покрасовались мы в своих венках-гирляндах и аккуратно их сложили в холодильник – не могу вот так расстаться – буду красоваться пока подарки окончательно не завянут, но и тогда можно повесить на гвоздик – все равно будет красиво и душисто. 

Поселились мы оказывается во владениях местного художника и шамана: он что-то такое делает с помощью татуировок – традиционная практика полинезийцев – расписывать тело вещими знаками. Но сам он рассказать об этом пока не может – он в отъезде и я о нем подробно уже расскажу, когда он вернется. Его симпатичная жена рассказывает нам кучу всего интересного – она наверное лучший путеводитель по острову – она знает всех и вся, вот и зумба-класс уже на горизонте у нас появился, и морское приключение – охота на голубого марлина тоже не за горами, и поездка на другие острова тоже становится реальностью!

 Фиона красавица и любит движение – то заметно по ее ладной фигурке 
Потом Фиона объяснила нам принцип движения автобусов по острову – это оказалось крайне просто: раз в полчаса автобус идет от ближайшего отеля в ту или в другую сторону по кольцу главной государственной дороги – кольцо 33 км и каждый километр на ней обозначен километровой меткой, а до центра города ехать минут 15. 
Центр города – это два банка, здание полиции и десяток магазинов. 
Мы поменяли деньги, усмотрели ресторанчик и решили познакомиться с местной кухней. Вот здесь мы поняли, что имели ввиду Фиона и Оксана, говоря про специфику островной жизни: здесь никто никуда не торопится! Причем настолько не торопится, что создается впечатление что люди намерены жить вечно :) 
Во всяком случае, наш салат видимо растили сначала на огороде, а потом ловили рыбу, которую обещали подать жареную. Но нас с Анной устраивал любой вариант: мы во все глаза разглядывали окружающий нас новый мир и тоже никуда не торопились. 

Вайфай интернет, как выяснилось, работал только около магазина, продающего эту услугу, поэтому уру-уру-ура – я теперь буду втрое меньше за компом, и у меня появится время для кучи всяких интересных вещей, да и для этого дневника, кстати сказать:) 
Вечером Фиона отвезла нас к Оксане – ее клиника недалеко, но накрапывал дождик и мокнуть не хотелось. 
Оксана была занята уборкой: накануне расшалившийся океан вынес ей на крыльцо полтонны песка, и она вгоняла природу обратно. На самом деле я еще днем поразилась: прибрежная полоса была уж очень низко над уровнем моря – буквально метр или полтора, и если волны разыграются не на шутку, то перехлестывания через дорогу не миновать. Так оно и оказалось: вода пройдясь по узкому пляжу, вынесла песок Оксане на двор и прошла даже дальше – за дом, за ворота – прямо на дорогу и нанесла туда кучу мусора, с которым теперь и воевала Оксана. 

Весь ее двор населен существами чудными: из корней, ракушек и коряг она наделала целый ансамбль сущностей, и отовсюду на тебя смотрели чьи-то ракушечные глазки – прямо сказочный лес получился! Под кофеек обговорили арттренинг и прочие планы. 
Поговорили про каннибализм вообще и в частности – про бедняжку Кука, который тут упокоился в животах у местных островитян. 
Оксана сообщила, что тут давно никого не едят, и только на Таити в прошлом году кого-то все-таки съели. 
Интересуюсь, далеко ли Таити, но Оксана успокаивает: едят только тех у кого выдающиеся какие-то качества, чтобы получить «ману» - силу. 

Теперь вот раздумываю: стоит ли арттренинг афишировать или провести его втихаря: ведь если какие-то здешние гурманы маны усмотрят в моих действиях что-то для себя витаминное, то мне не избежать их зубов? Раскладываемся спать – у нас очень длинный день и я вероятно сейчас провалюсь в сон и уже почти заснув бормочу с улыбкой «нановомместеприснисьженихневесте», но выныриваю быстро: за деревьями окружающими дом кто-то ходит с барабанами и какой-то брякалкой. Это не громогласный барабанище, а что-то типа тамтамов – рокочущий звук не тревожный совсем, но крайне непривычный! 

Попрыгав от окна к окну и ничего не разглядев в кромешной темноте, я соображаю, что это видимо аналог наших российских деревенских гуляний с баяном либо с гитарой, укладываюсь наконец и – здравствуй, Морфей!


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